Sony FDR-X3000 4K Action Cam – built in gimbal.

One of the cameras I used a lot in Norway is the new Sony FDR-X3000 action cam. What’s different about this POV camera is that the lens and sensor are actually mounted in an internal miniaturised gimbal. This really does work and helps stabilise the image.

There is also a tiny bluetooth monitor that you can wear on your wrist to view the pictures and control the camera. The image quality you get from these tiny cameras really is quite amazing. Take a look at the video to find out more and see some sample footage.

9 thoughts on “Sony FDR-X3000 4K Action Cam – built in gimbal.”

    1. The 4K from the X3000 in good light is stunning and noticeably better than the HD. In low light the images get a little grainy and then it’s hard to tell the difference.

  1. Hi Alister,
    Based on you recommendation and video I purchased a X3000. Mainly because I do run and gun work and need something small and stabilized without a gimbal.

    two questions:
    1 – 4K is good but limited to 25p. I now prefer to record in 1080p100 (100mbs) because all my output is HD and I want to have the ability to slow thing down. But moreover: For fast moving shots (like yours in the sled) footage will get blurry and lose resolution. I can nog find any info on shutter speed settings and all that. So what do you recommend. Did you do any tests.
    (PS I also have the camera on -0.7db so a little under exposed for grading later – see 2) .
    2- how do you grade the clips? Any tips to get the maximum?

  2. To answer some of my own questions I did some tests. I made several clips and checked the recorded settings using a SONY program called Catalyst Browse. This program reads the metadata of the clips recorded. Unfortunately it only records the settings of the first frame. So I recorded a clip with a certain setting with the cap on (black) and without pointing at a reference scene.

    Basically the frame rate setting is controlling the minimum shutter speed. So a setting at 25p will have 1/25 shutterspeed with the cap on. and 100p 1/100 etc. Without the cap the shutterspeed is what controles the amount of light on the sensor.

    I guess only when the minimm shutterspeed is reached the electronic gain kicks in, boosting the recording. This can be controlled a little bit by lowering the db setting, p.e. -0.7. Tried several settings, -2.0 +2.0 to see the effect on the first frame settings in normal light and this results in a little bit lower shutterspeed. But shutterspeed under normal conditions tend to be high like 2000 or 4000, I guess under full light this could be 10.000 easily.

    Basically I will use two base settings: 1080p100 @ 100mBit and 4K25 100mbit. Both use the wide angle. If I don’t want wide I will go to 1080p25 50mbit.

    what is your experience?

    1. That all sounds about right and is what I would expect from a camera with no iris function. The only additional way to control the exposure is by adding ND filters.

  3. Alister can you do multi-day still image timelapses powering via AC? I’m trying to shoot a lock down shot for 8hrs. each day, 5 consecutive days. I will power off overnight and change cards. Not finding a clear answer anywhere on powering, and I’ve also read various overheating concerns. Is this the right tool for the job would you think? Thanks for the great reviews!

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