Deeper Understanding Of Log Gamma. Experiments with a Waveform Display.

I started writing this as an explanation of why I often choose not to use log for low light. But instead it’s ended up as an experiment you can try for yourself if you have a waveform monitor that will hopefully allow you to better understand the differences between log and standard gamma. Get a waveform display hooked up to your log camera and try this for yourself.

S-Log and other log gammas are wonderful things, but they are not the be-all and end-all of video gammas. They are designed for one specific purpose and that is to give cameras using conventional YCbCr or RGB recording methods the ability to record the greatest possible dynamic range with a limited amount of data, as a result there are some compromises made when using log. Unlike conventional gammas with a knee or gammas such as hypergammas and cinegammas, log gammas do not normally have any highlight roll off, but do have a shadow roll-off. Once you get above middle grey log gammas normally record every stop with almost exactly the same amount of data, right up to the clipping point where they hard clip. Below middle grey there is a roll off of data per stop as you go down towards the black clip point (as there is naturally less information in the shadows this is expected). So in many respects log gammas are almost the reverse of standard gammas. The highlight roll off that you may believe that you see with log is often just the natural way that real world highlights roll off anyway, after all there isn’t an infinite amount of light floating around (thank goodness). Or that apparent roll off is simply a display or LUT limitation.

An experiment for you to try.

Click on the chart to go to larger versions that you can download. Display it full screen on you computer and use it as a test chart. You may need to de-focus the camera slightly to avoid aliasing from the screens pixels.
Click on the chart to go to larger versions that you can download. Display it full screen on your computer and use it as a test chart. You may need to de-focus the camera slightly to avoid aliasing from the screens pixels.

If you have a waveform display and a grey scale chart you can actually see this behaviour. If you don’t have a chart use the grey scale posted here full screen on your computer monitor. Start with a conventional gamma, preferably REC-709. Point the camera at the chart and gradually open up the aperture. With normal gammas as you open the aperture you will see the steps between each grey bar open up and the steps spread apart until you reach the knee point, typically at 90% (assuming the knee is ON which is the default for most cameras).  Once you hit the knee all those steps rapidly squash back together again.

What you are seeing on the waveform is conventional gamma behaviour where for each stop you go up in exposure you almost double the amount of data recorded, thus capturing the real world very accurately (although only within a limited range). Once you hit the knee everything is compressed together to increase the dynamic range using only a very small recording range, leaving the shadows and all important mid range well recorded. It’s this highlight compression that gives video the “video look”, washed out highlights with no contrast that look electronic.

If you repeat the same exercise with a hypergamma or cinegamma once again in the lower and mid range you will see the steps stretch apart on the waveform as you increase the exposure. But once you get to about 65-70% they stop stretching apart and now start to squeeze together. This is the highlight roll off of the hypergamma/cinegamma doing it’s thing. Once again compressing the highlights to get a greater dynamic range but doing this in a progressive gradual manner that tends to look much nicer than the hard knee. Even though this does look better than 709 + Knee in the vast majority of cases, we are still compressing the highlights, still throwing away a lot of data or highlight picture information that can never be recovered in post production no matter what you do.

Conventional video = Protect Your Highlights.

So in the conventional video world we are taught as cameramen to “protect the highlights”. Never overexpose because it looks bad and even grading won’t help a lot. If anything we will often err on the side of caution and expose a little low to avoid highlight issues. If you are using a Hypergamma or Cinegamma you really need to be careful with skin tones to keep them below that 65-70% beginning of the highlight roll off.

Now repeat the same experiment with Slog2 or S-log3. S-log2 is best for the experiment as it shows what is going on most clearly. Before you do it though mark middle grey on your waveform display with a piece of tape or similar. Middle grey for S-log2 is 32% (41% for S-log3).

Now open up the aperture and watch those steps between the grey scale bars. Below middle grey, as with the standard gammas you will see the gap between each bar open up. But take careful note of what happens above middle grey. Once you get above middle grey and all the way to the clip point the gap between each step remains the same.

So what’s happening now?

Well this is the S-log curve recording each stop above middle grey with the same amount of data. In addition there is NO highlight roll off. Even the very brightest step just below clipping will be same size as the one just above middle grey. In practice what this means is that it doesn’t make a great deal of difference where you expose for example skin tones, provided they are above middle grey and below clipping. After grading it will look more or less the same. In addition it means that that very brightest stop contains a lot of great, useable picture information. Compare that to Rec-709 or the Cinegammas/Hypergammas where the brightest  stops are all squashed together and contain almost no contrast or picture information.

Now add in to the equation what is going on in the shadows. Log has less data in the shadows than standard gammas because you are recording a greater overall dynamic range, so each stop is recorded with overall less data.

Standard Gammas = More shadow data per stop, much less highlight data = Need to protect highlights.

Log= Less shadow data per stop, much more highlight data = Need to protect shadows.

Hopefully now you can see that with S-log we need to flip the way we shoot from protecting highlights to protecting shadows. When you shoot with conventional gammas most people expose so the mid range is OK, then take a look at the highlights to make sure they are not too bright and largely ignore whats going on in the shadows. With Log you need to do the opposite. Expose the mid range and then check the shadows to make sure they are not too dark. You can ignore the highlights.

Yes, thats’ right, when shooting log: IGNORE the highlights!

Cinegamma highlight roll off. Note how the tree branches in the highlights look strangled and ugly due to the lack of highlight data, hence "protect your highlights".
Cinegamma highlight roll off. Note how the tree branches in the highlights look strangled and ugly due to the lack of highlight data, hence “protect your highlights”.
Graded S-Log2. Note how nice the same tree branches look because there is a lot of data in the highlights, but the shadows are a little crunchy. Hence: protect your shadows.
Graded S-Log2. Note how nice the same tree branches look because there is a lot of data in the highlights, but the shadows are a little crunchy. Hence: protect your shadows.

For a start you monitor or viewfinder isn’t going to be able to accurately reproduce the highlights as bright as they are . So typically they will look a lot more over exposed than they really are. In addition there is a ton of data in those highlights that you will be able to extract in the grade. But most importantly if you do underexpose your mid range will suffer, it will get noisy and your shadows will look terrible because there will be no data to work with.

When I shoot with log I always over expose by at least 1 stop above the manufacturer recommended levels. If you are using S-log2 or S-log3 that can be achieved by setting zebras to 70% and then checking that you are JUST starting to see zebras on something white in your shot such as a white shirt or piece of paper. If your camera has CineEI use an EI that is half of the cameras native ISO (I use 1000 or 800 EI for my FS7 or F5).

I hope these experiments with a grey scale and waveform help you understand what is going on with you gamma curves. One thing I will add is that while controlled over exposure is beneficial it can lead to some issues with grading. That’s because most LUT’s are designed for “correct” exposure so will typically look over exposed. Another issue is that if you simply reduce the gain level in post to compensate than the graded footage looks flat and washed out. This is because you are applying a linear correction to log footage. Fo a long tome I struggled to get pleasing results from over exposed log footage. The secret is to either use LUT’s that are offset to compensate for over exposure or to de-log the footage prior to grading using an S-Curve. I’ll cover both of these in a later article.

Chart showing S-Log2 and S-Log3 plotted against f-stops and code values.
Chart showing S-Log2 and S-Log3 plotted against f-stops and code values.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What about shooting in low light?

OK, now lets imagine we are shooting a dark or low light scene. It’s dark enough that even if we open the aperture all the way the brightest parts of the scene (ignoring things like street lights) do not reach clipping (92% with S-Log3 or 109% with S-Log2). This means two things. 1: The scene has a dynamic range less than 14 stops and 2: We are not utilising all of the recording data available to us. We are wasting data.

Log exposed so that the scene fills the entire curve puts around 100 code values (or luma shades) per stop above middle grey for S-log2 and 75 code values for S-Log3 with a 10 bit codec. If your codec is only 8 bit then that becomes 25 for S-log2 and 19 code values for S-Log3. And that’s ONLY if you are recording a signal that fills the full range from black clip to white clip.

3 stops below middle grey there is very little data, about thirty 10 bit code values for S-Log2 and about 45 for S-log3. Once again if the codec is 8 bit you have much less, about 7 for S-Log2 and about 11 for S-log2. As a result the darker parts of your recorded scene will be recorded with very little data and very few shades. This impacts how much you can grade the image in post as there is very little picture information in the darker parts of the shot and noise tends to look quite coarse as it is only recorded with a limited number of steps or levels (this is particularly true of 8 bit codecs and an area where 8 bit recordings can be problematic).

So what happens if we use a standard gamma curve?

Lets say we now shoot the same scene with a standard gamma curve, perhaps REC-709. One point to note with Sony cameras like the FS5, FS7, F5/F55 etc is that the standard gammas normally have a native ISO one to two stops lower than S-Log. That’s because the standard gammas ignore the darkest couple of stops that are recorded when in log. After all there is very little really useable picture information down there in all the noise.

Now our limited dynamic range scene will be filling much more of our recording range. So straight away we have more data per stop because we are utilising a bigger portion of the recording range. In addition because our recorded levels will be higher in our recording range there will be more data per stop, typically double the data especially in the darker parts of the recorded image. This means than any noise is recorded more accurately which results in smoother looking noise. It also means there is more data available for any post production manipulation.

But what about those dark scenes with problem highlights such as street lights?

This an area where Cinegammas or Hypergammas are very useful. The problem highlights like strret lights normally only make up a very small part of your your overall scene. So unless you are shooting for HDR display it’s a huge waste to use S-log just to bring some highlights into range as you make big compromises to the rest of the image and you’ll never be able to show them accurately in the finished image anyway as they will exceed the dynamic range of the TV display.  Instead for these situations a Hypergamma or Cinegamma works well because below about 70% exposure Hypergammas and cinegammas are very similar to Rec-709 so you will have lots of data in the shadows and mid range where you really need it. The highlights will be up in the highlight roll off area where the data levels or number of recorded shades are rolled off. So the highlights still get recorded, perhaps without clipping, but you are only giving away a small amount of data to do this. The highlights possibly won’t look quite as nice as if recorded with log, but they are typically only a small part of the scene and the rest of the scene especially the shadows and mid tones will end up looking much better as the noise will be smoother and there will be more data in that all important mid-range.

 

The Falcon. PXW-FS5 short film.

Filmed and edited in 2 day as part of the PXW-FS5 launch event in Dubai this short film shows off some of the features of the FS5. Many shots make use of the Supers Slow Motion mode, shooting at 240fps. Others take advantage of the cameras lightweight where we mounted the camera on a DJI Romin M gimbal. The time-lapse shots were done using S&Q motion shooting at 1fps, often with a 1 second shutter. I used a mix of Cinegamma 3 and S-Log2 for the shoot depending on the required dynamic range. Lenses used include Zeiss Loxia 35mm and 50mm. A sigma 18-250mm (canon mount), the Sony 18-105mm and a Sigma 18-35mm Art lens on a cheap Fotga E-Mount to Canon tilt adapter. I will follow this up with a behind the scenes video in a week or so.

USA Workshop Tour. December 2015.

965437_547020302056401_894467613_oI’m going to be in the US at the end of December holding a number of  2 hour seminars and full day workshops. The 2 hour seminars are being sponsored by Sony and will give an overview of how to get the very best from the Sony PMW-F5 and PMW-F55 cameras.

As well as these seminars (which will be well worth attending) I am also running some in depth full day workshops on gamma, colorspace and log aimed at anyone that really wants to know how to get the very best from their cameras, whether that’s an FS5, FS7 or F5/F55. The S-Log Demystified workshops will be in-depth and limited in numbers so plenty of time to answer any questions and help every attendee individually. These workshops will be interesting, informative and really help people get the very best from their cameras when shooting with S-log or even with other log gamma curves. They will include hints and tips that make using log really easy, explain why log works so well and teach you how to adapt your exposure techniques to get the best possible log footage. I promise you will learn a lot. Earlybird rates are available for the AbelCine workshops.

December 11th, Omega Broadcast, Austin, Texas.  2 hour Seminars. 

December 14th, AbelCine, Los Angeles. Full day intensive workshop.

December 16th, Minneapolis, Z-Systems Inc. 5pm to 8pm inc 2 hour seminar.

December 18th, AbelCine, Chicago. Full day intensive workshop. 

December 21st, AbelCine, New York. Full day intensive workshop.

Treat it like a film camera!

If you have a modern camera that can record log or raw and has 13 stops or more of dynamic range you need to stop thinking “video” and think “film”.

A big mistake most traditional video camera operators make with these big DR cameras is to treat them as they would a typical limited dynamic range video camera and constantly worry and obsess about protecting highlights. Why do we do this? Well probably because that’s what you do with cameras with a very limited range and that’s probably what you have had drummed into you for years. But now with modern large sensor cameras everything changes. When you get to a 14 stop range camera, even if you choose to shoot 2 stops over exposed  (perhaps by using 500 EI on an FS7 or F5) you still have as much or more over exposure range as a conventional video camera and the highlight range that you do have is not subject to a knee or other similar acute highlight compression. So any highlights will contain a ton of high quality, usable picture information. By shooting over exposed by a controlled amount (1 to 2 stops), perhaps by using a low EI you gain very big improvements in the signal to noise ratio and get better saturated colors (opening the aperture lets more light onto the sensor, your colors will be better recorded). This allows you to pull a lot more information out of the data thin shadows and mid range. Most cameras that use log have very little data in the shadows. If you are recording with a 10 bit codec cameras that use variations of the Cineon log curve (Arri LogC, Sony S-Log3, Panasonic V-Log) only have about 80 luma shades covering the first 4 stops of exposure in total. Above the 4th stop the amount of data per stop increases rapidly so a little bit of deliberate over exposure really helps lift your darkest shadows up out of the noise and mire. Up in the highlights each stop has exactly the same amount of data, so over exposing a bit doesn’t compress the highlights as it would with a conventional camera, so a bit of mild over exposure is normally not noticeable.

Really with a 14 stop log camera you want to treat it like film, not video. Just like film, a 14 stop log camera will almost always benefit from a controlled amount of over exposure, highlights will rarely suffer or look bad just because you’re one stop hot, but he shadows and midtones will be significantly improved. And just like film, if you under expose log you will take a big hit. You will loose a lot of shadow information very quickly, have less color, it will be noisy and the highlight benefit will be marginal.

KitPlus Tour Hit’s Manchester next Tuesday.

Looking forward to the KitPlus event in Manchester next Tuesday the 10th of November. I’ll be there to talk about large sensor cameras in general, the FS5 and to offer help and advice to those that visit including some guided tours around the Sony booth. Geoff Boyle will be giving lighting workshops. HaZ Dulall will be talking about budget VFX (his talks are fascinating). Plus of course there will be lots of kit on show from all the major players. http://www.kitplus.com/tour/

Why It’s Helpful To Over Expose S-Log, Especially If You Only Have 8 Bit Recording.

This is something that keeps coming up in my workshops. It’s very important if shooting with S-Log2 or S-Log3 not to under expose and in most cases it can be highly beneficial to over expose a bit. Especially if you are using a camera like the A7s or FS5 in 4K when you only have 8 bit data.

S-log-levels

Take a look at this chart. It plots the S-Log2 and S-Log3 gamma curves on a log scale of f-stops against the amount of 10 bit or code values used to record each stop. The center line of the chart is middle grey. Both S-log2 and S-log3 provide 8 stops below middle grey and 6 stops above. Take a look at the darkest stop, the one that is -7 to -8 and look at how much data is allocated to that stop. With 10 bit recording you have according to this chart about 10 code values for S-Log2 and about 20 for S-Log3. That’s if you have 10 bit, and it’s not a lot of data. Admittedly there isn’t going to be a great deal of scene information in that darkest stop, deep in the shadows and the noise. But there’s part of the issue, the noise. If you have under exposed and you take this in to post and have to stretch out the shadows, the noise in these darkest shadows is going to look pretty coarse because it hasn’t been recorded with many shades/steps so stretching it out will make even “rougher” for want of a better term. If you are recording with 8 bit the problems is even worse. With 8 bit, S-Log2 will only have around 2 or 3 code values for that bottom stop, in effect the noise will have two values – black or +1 stop. Imagine how nasty that will look if you need to raise or stretch you blacks because you are under exposed, it will become very blocky and grainy.

The solution is to over expose a bit. By over exposing your footage by a stop when you go in to post production you will in most cases be bringing your levels down. So instead of stretching the noise out and making it worse you will be shrinking it down and reducing the negative impact it has on it’s image. Because cameras like the FS5, A7s etc have 14 stops of dynamic range this small bit of over exposure is going to make very little difference to your highlights in the vast majority of situations. Any slight over exposure you may have will likely look quite natural anyway, after all our own eyesight does also over expose, we don’t have unlimited dynamic range. On top of that the display technology does not exist to show a 14 stop range shot in it’s entirety and with natural contrast.

Northern Lights 2016

Northern Lights as seen on one of my Aurora Tours.
Northern Lights as seen on one of my Aurora Tours.

Don’t forget about my Northern Lights tours. I still have places for the 7th of Feb to 13th of Feb 2016. It’s always an incredible and unforgettable experience. A chance to find out how the Sami people live in up on the Finnmarksvidda in the arctic winter. As well as the Aurora or Northern Lights there’s snowmobiling, dog sled driving, ice fishing, camp fire cooking, traditional log fired sauna and so much more. Full details are here.

Aurora over a Fjord in Tromso.
Aurora over a Fjord in Tromso.

Metabones Sony FZ to Canon EF adapter launched.

Metabones FZ to EF adapter.
Metabones FZ to EF adapter.

So finally, here it is! First seen at IBC over a year ago and eagerly awaited ever since, the Metabones Sony FZ to Canon EF lens adapter. This adapter fits the Sony PMW-F3, F5 and F55 cameras. It replaces the supplied PL mount with a very high quality, locking Canon EF mount that electronically controls the Canon lens aperture.

The adapter takes it’s power directly from the camera, to make it work correctly you need to go in to the camera menu and select the TypeA+12 or TypeC+12 lens adapter type. Once the menu has been set and the adapter fitted to the camera you will get a direct readout of the lenses aperture and focus distance in the viewfinder with the vast majority of electronically controlled Canon EF lenses.

Aperture ring and aperture scale on the Metabones FZ to EF adapter.
Aperture ring and aperture scale on the Metabones FZ to EF adapter.

In addition on the adapter itself there is a large aperture ring and a window where the aperture number is clearly displayed. The aperture ring has a standard 0.8 pitch gear so you can remotely drive it with a follow focus motor if you need remote aperture control. One point to note is that the aperture ring indications go all the way down to f1. If your lens has a largest aperture of say f4, if you turn the ring past f4 the aperture will not magically open any wider than it can, so it is possible to have f2.8 or even f1 indicated in the window on the aperture ring while the lens may be at it’s actual maximum aperture. However don’t worry too much as if you look in the viewfinder the correct actual aperture of the lens is displayed. Also remember that if you are using an entirely mechanical lens such as a Samyang prime that the aperture control on the adapter will have no effect on the lens, you would use the aperture ring on the lens to adjust the aperture and you may not get the aperture and focus information in the viewfinder.

Lenses are secured by a locking ring on the Metabones FZ to EF adapter.
Lenses are secured by a locking ring on the Metabones FZ to EF adapter.

Mounting lenses on the adapter is easy. To attach a lens simply align the red dot on the lens with the red mark on the adapter and insert the lens into the lens mount. Then, instead of twisting the lens as you would do on a Canon camera you twist the large silver locking ring anti-clockwise and this clamps the lens very securely in place. This system ensures the lens is very secure so it won’t twist or wobble. This is very important if you’re using a lens with pitch gears and a follow focus as it stops the lens shifting against the force of the follow focus.

If your lens has image stabilisation then this will work so you can benefit from this when shooting on the move or with very long focal lengths.

The buttons and switches on the Metabones FZ to EF adapter.
The buttons and switches on the Metabones FZ to EF adapter.

On the side of the adapter there are two push buttons marked as FN1 and FN2. These currently appear to have no effect. The lens adapter firmware can be updated by the end user via a micro USB port, so perhaps in the future there will be extra functions for these buttons. Just above the buttons is a 3 way switch. This switches the adapter between manual, locked and auto. In manual the aperture ring controls the lenses aperture. Switch the switch to lock and the aperture is locked at the last set position. In Auto the camera controls the aperture automatically. For auto aperture the camera must be in Custom Mode and not using S-Log. Auto Exposure must also be turned on in the cameras menu. Once activated you can include an exposure offset via the camera menu to help deal with different lighting situations. It is worth remembering though that electronic Canon lens apertures operate in 1/8th of a stop steps. So any exposure changes mid shot will often be seen as small stepped brightness changes. Also in some situations you may find that the exposure the camera wants is right between two steps and in this instance the aperture will flicker between the two steps. This isn’t a fault or problem with the camera or the adapter, it’s just a characteristic of the way Canon EF lenses work and there’s nothing that Sony or Metabones can do about this.

Nice flocking inside the Metabones FZ to EF adapter.
Nice flocking inside the Metabones FZ to EF adapter.

The build quality is very good. The adapter is made mainly from aluminium alloy, machined to a very high standard and nicely anodised. The internal parts of the adapter are flocked with a high quality black flocking material that looks like it should be very good at reducing any internal reflections.

I really do think this is one of, if not the best FZ to EF adapter on the market. There are no wires or cables. Aperture is control by an aperture ring just as on a cine lens and you have an aperture indication right on the side of the adapter as well as focus distance and aperture indications in the viewfinder. The lens locks in to place securely and the build quality is excellent. So just on the features alone I would recommend this adapter, but then when you consider that it’s also the cheapest electronic FZ to EF adapter on the market it becomes a real no-brainer. If you need or want to use Canon EF lenses on your PMW-F5 or PMW-F55 then this adapter ticks all the right boxes.

 

NORTHERN LIGHTS 2016.

Don’t forget I run storm chasing and Northern Lights expeditions every year. I still have some places on the second Northern Lights tour in Feb 2016. These are amazing expeditions by snowmobile up on to the Finnmarksvidda. We go ice fishing, dog sledding, exploring, cook a meal in a tent and enjoy traditional Norwegian saunas.

More information here.

Northern Lights over our cabins in Norway.
Northern Lights over our cabins in Norway.