Category Archives: PXW

Sony launches 2 new camcorders – PXW-Z200 XDCAM and HXR-NX800 NXCAM

 

It’s been a long time since Sony launched an XDCAM camcorder, but here it is, the new PXW-X200 along with the similar but ever so slightly lower spec HXR-NX800 NXCAM (basically missing the SDI out and won’t have MXF recording).

Screenshot-2024-08-20-at-12.16.00-600x343 Sony launches 2 new camcorders - PXW-Z200 XDCAM and HXR-NX800 NXCAM
Sony’s new PXW-Z200 camcorder.


Why release 2 new cameras with smallish 1″ sensors in a market dominated by super 35mm and full frame cameras?

It’s all abut the lens!

Well a lot comes down to the lens. As many will know you cannot get small, fast, light weight zooms with a very big zoom ranges for the bigger sensor cameras. The laws of physics and optics get in the way. But, build a camera with a smaller sensor with an integrated lens and you can have a big zoom range in a very compact and lightweight package. This type of camera can be very handy for news and documentary production and a market for them still exists.  Those that shoot weddings and events will also find the ability to get a wide range of different shots from one position beneficial.

Screenshot-2024-08-20-at-12.18.11-600x366 Sony launches 2 new camcorders - PXW-Z200 XDCAM and HXR-NX800 NXCAM

The Z200 and the NX800 both feature a Sony G series lens that will give the equivalent field of view to a 24-480mm lens on a Full Frame sensor. This is a 20x power zoom lens with maximum apertures of F2.8 (wide) and F4.5 (telephoto). If you need a longer reach then you can combine the optical zoom with Sony’s electronic Clear Image zoom function to gain an additional 1.5x or 2x.

Screenshot-2024-08-20-at-12.20.41-600x366 Sony launches 2 new camcorders - PXW-Z200 XDCAM and HXR-NX800 NXCAM
Taken with a Sony Z200 at 474mm
Screenshot-2024-08-20-at-12.21.05-600x366 Sony launches 2 new camcorders - PXW-Z200 XDCAM and HXR-NX800 NXCAM
And now zoomed all the way out to a wider shot. You can’t do this with an FX6 or FX9 with a single lens and smooth zoom between the two shots.



Stabilisation.

The lens is optically stabilised and in addition to the optical stabilisation you can add Sony’s electronic Active Stabilisation to help combat camera shake and unwanted movements. There is a small crop when you use the Active mode and it can’t be used when shooting at 100fps or higher.

AI Autofocus and object tracking.

Screenshot-2024-08-20-at-12.16.40-600x366 Sony launches 2 new camcorders - PXW-Z200 XDCAM and HXR-NX800 NXCAM
The new sensor has 475 phase detection sites covering 81% of the sensor.

 

Throw in a good dose of Sony’s excellent AI enhanced auto focus and object tracking and getting great shots in a wide range of scenarios becomes easier than possible with previous generations of similar cameras. The camera can identify and track not only faces but the profile of a human, so the AF can follow a moving person whether they are facing the camera or not.

Variable ND.

Behind the lens is Sony’s now almost universal variable ND filter which goes from 1/4 to 1/128th density – 2 stops to 7 stops of ND plus a clear position.

1.0-inch-type Exmor RS™ CMOS stacked sensor

Both cameras have a 5K, 14 megapixel 1.0-inch-type Exmor RS™ CMOS stacked sensor. There is a full oversampled 5K readout of the sensor when shooting at up to 60fps. I have not tried the camera yet, but these specs suggest that overall you should get reasonable sensitivity and decent noise performance. The back illuminated stacked sensors tend to have bigger pixels than non-stacked sensors with a similar pixel count as the readout circuits are separated and on different sensor layers from the photosites.  The extra space for the readout circuits also allows for higher speed sensor readouts. If you want to shoot faster than 60fps then there is a small crop as the sensor appears to be read at 4K (23%) and then you can shoot at up to 120fps in 4K and 240fps in HD.
The cameras use the same BIONZ XR processing as found in the most recent Sony Alpha and FX series cameras.

Screenshot-2024-08-20-at-12.19.50-600x303 Sony launches 2 new camcorders - PXW-Z200 XDCAM and HXR-NX800 NXCAM
The HXR-NX800 and PXW-Z200 are very similar with only a few minor differences.

 

Recording Codecs.

Both new cameras both support a wide variety of recording formats including XAVC HS, XAVC S, XAVC SI, and XAVC HS Proxy (up to 16 Mbps). These will be recorded using the .mp4 wrapper in the same way that the FX series camera do. They also support proxy recording. 

  • XAVC S-I, HS-L, S-L, HD/QFHD Recording

The PXW-Z200 will also support  XAVC MXF recording through a future firmware update expected summer 2025.

The cameras record to Dual CFexpress Type-A/SD Card Slots, again this is the same as the Alpha and FX series cameras, so the same media can be used for both.

Gamma Curves and Colour Profiles.

Screenshot-2024-08-20-at-12.19.11-600x269 Sony launches 2 new camcorders - PXW-Z200 XDCAM and HXR-NX800 NXCAM
The Z200 and NX800 include Sony’s popular S-Cinetone colour profile and this will help when using these cameras alongside cameras such as the FX3 or FX6.


These cameras do include Sony’s S-Cinetone colour science and colour profile. In addition there are profiles for ITU-709, Sony’s new 709Tone (matches previous generations of cameras) as well as HLG for direct to HDR applications. S-Log3 and the ability to add a LUT IS included via a flexible ISO shooting mode but I do have to wonder if the sensor actually has enough dynamic range to make full use of it.

Outputs and connectivity.

Both the HXR-NX800 and PXW-Z200 are equipped with various interfaces including HDMI Type A, USB Type-C™, LAN, and REMOTE terminals. The PXW-Z200 also has a 12G SDI output and TC input/output.

For audio there are two full size XLR connectors as well as an MI show on the top of the handle giving the ability to input up to 4 channels of audio.

The cameras also have built in RTMP/RTMPS or SRT streaming capabilities along with 2.5/5Ghz wifi connectivity.

Versatile file transfer options include HEVC (H.265) and AVC (H.264) codecs, automatic upload to the cloud or an FTP server, and the ability for proxy chunk for high-quality and secure file transfer.

Furthermore, by combining it with Sony’s new portable data transmitter, PDT-FP1, the two new camcorders can support higher quality streaming with the company’s proprietary QoS technology and Creators’ Cloud for enterprise services, including the camera linking cloud service, C3 Portal (paid service), XDCAM pocket, and the cloud broadcast system, M2 Live.

Monitoring.

The cameras have a folding 3.5″ LCD screen and a removable hood can be attached to the screen to create a sun shade. 

Screenshot-2024-08-20-at-12.17.44-600x366 Sony launches 2 new camcorders - PXW-Z200 XDCAM and HXR-NX800 NXCAM
The cameras have a folding 3.5″ LCD screen with a removable sun hood.

 

So who’s it for?

I guess this is the big question. We are seeing more and more organisations that would have once used cameras like the Z280 moving to large sensor cameras like the FX3, FX6 or even A7S3 because they prefer the way the images look. When you put a high quality photo lens on an FX3 it’s pretty easy to create good looking images. Plus an FX3 with a lens is cheaper than what a lot of “professional” camcorders used to cost.

These cameras are expected to be available September 2024 for a suggested retail price of $3,299.99 (USD) (EUR 3000), and$3,999.99 (USD) (EUR 3750), respectively. So, they are cheaper than previous similar cameras. But is that enough? A lot will depend on the actual image quality that these can deliver “in the wild”. How easy will an average camera operator find it to get a good looking image. That big 20x zoom range is certainly highly appealing, it would be great for something like filming a breaking news story – it would have been easier to take a camera like this to have shot the volcanoes in Iceland than a camera plus bag full of lenses. It will definitely appeal to those that shoot weddings and events as an all-round general purpose camera. So, who knows, maybe these will do well for Sony. Only time will tell and I look forward to testing one properly.




 

 

Improve the accuracy of manual white balance with the FX6 and FX9.

Have you ever struggled to get a decent white balance from a white or grey card with the Sony FX6, FX9 or in fact many other cameras (this method works equally well for the FS7, FS5, F5 and F55 etc)? Well here is a very simple trick that can really help, especially for those situations where the camera is a long way from the scene and a white card is too small in the frame for an accurate reading.

All you need to do is to cut a square hole in a piece of black card or plastic. Then when you want to take your white balance simply hold the mask in front of the lens so that it masks out the background of the shot leaving just your white card visible. It’s really simple, really easy and it really works! 

New SxS/AXS drivers and New Raw Viewer

mac-drivers-600x450 New SxS/AXS drivers and New Raw ViewerOver the last few days Sony have been busy releasing new drivers and new software to support not just Venice 2 but also the AXS-R7 and newer AXS-R1 SxS card readers on Apples M1 macs as well as Windows 11.

There is a new and updated version of Sony’s Raw Viewer software that includes support for the 8K Venice 2 files and which runs correctly on Apples newer M1 silicon. This can be downloaded from here: https://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/download/rawviewer

In addition Sony have released a new AXSM utility tool with new drivers for the AR1/AR3 to support the latest cards and formats as well as support for Apple M1 silicon and Windows 11. This is an essential update if you are using these new readers or Venice 2. This can be downloaded from here: https://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/axsmdrive#download

Should You Use In Camera Noise Reduction Or Not?

This is another common question on many user groups. It comes up time and time again. But really there is no one clear cut answer. In a perfect world we would never need to add any noise reduction, but we don’t live and shoot in a perfect world. Often a camera might be a little noisy or you may be shooting with a lot less light than you would really like, so in camera NR might need to be considered.

You need to consider carefully whether you should use in camera NR or not. There will be some cases where you want in camera NR and other times when you don’t.

Post Production NR.
An important consideration is that adding post production NR on top of in-camera NR is never the best route to go down. NR on top of NR will often produce ugly blocky artefacts. If you ever want to add NR in post production it is almost always better not to also add in camera NR. Post production NR has many advantages as you can more precisely control the type and amount you add depending on what the shot needs. When using proper grading software such as DaVinci Resolve you can use power windows or masks to only add NR to the parts of the image that need it.

Before someone else points it out I will add here that it is almost always impossible to turn off all in camera NR. There will almost certainly be some NR added at the sensor that you can not turn off. In addition most recording codecs will apply some noise reduction to avoid wasting data recording the noise, again this can’t be turned off. Generally higher bit rate, less compressed codecs apply less NR. What I am talking about here is the additional NR that can be set to differing levels within the cameras settings that is in addition to the NR that occurs at the sensor or in the codec.

Almost every NR process, as well as reducing the visibility of noise will introduce other image artefacts. Most NR process work by taking an average value for groups of pixels or an average value for the same pixel over a number of frames. This averaging tends to not only reduce the noise but also reduce fine details and textures. Faces and skin tones may appear smoothed and unnatural if excessively noise reduced. Smooth surfaces such as walls or the sky may get broken up into subtle bands or steps. Sometimes these artefacts won’t be seen in the cameras viewfinder or on a small screen and only become apparent on a bigger TV or monitor. Often the banding artefacts seen on walls etc are a result of excessive NR rather than a poor codec etc (although the two are often related as a weak codec may have to add a lot of NR to a noisy shot keep the bit rate down).

If you are shooting log then any minor artefacts in the log footage from in camera noise reduction may be magnified when you start grading and boosting the contrast. So, generally speaking when shooting log it is always best to avoid adding in camera NR. The easiest way to avoid noise when shooting with log is to expose a bit brighter so that in the grade you are never adding gain. Take gain away in post production to compensate for a brighter exposure and you take away much of the noise – without giving up those fine textures and details that make skin tones look great. If shooting log, really the only reason an image will be noisy is because it hasn’t been exposed bright enough. Even scenes that are meant to look dark need to be exposed well. Scenes with large dark areas need good contrast between at least some brighter parts so that the dark areas appear to be very dark compared to the bright highlights. Without any highlights it’s always tempting to bring up the shadows to give some point of reference. Add a highlight such as a light fixture or a lit face or object and there is no need to then bring up the shadows, they can remain dark, contrast is king when it comes to dark and night scenes.

If, however you are shooting for “direct to air” or content that won’t be graded and needs to look as good as possible directly from the camera then a small amount of in camera NR can be beneficial. But you should test the cameras different levels to see how much difference each level makes while also observing what happens to subtle textures and fine details. There is no free lunch here. The more NR you use the more fine details and textures you will lose and generally the difference in the amount of noise that is removed between the mid and high setting is quite small. Personally I tend to avoid using high and stick to low or medium levels. As always good exposure is the best way to avoid noise. Keep your gain and ISO levels low, add light if necessary or use a faster lens, this is much more effective than cranking up the NR.

DaVinci resolve Frame Rendering Issue and XAVC

There is a bug in some versions of DaVinci Resolve 17 that can cause frames in some XAVC files to be rendered in the wrong order. This results in renders where the resulting video appears to stutter or the motion may jump backwards for a frame or two. This has now been fixed in version 17.3.2 so all user of XAVC and DaVinci Resolve are urged to upgrade to at least version 17.3.2.

https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/uk/support/family/davinci-resolve-and-fusion

SDI Failures and what YOU can do to stop it happening to you.

Updated 22/01/2024.

Sadly this is not an uncommon problem. Suddenly and seemingly for no apparent reason the SDI (or HDMI) output on your camera stops working. And this isn’t a new problem either, SDI and HDMI ports have been failing ever since they were first introduced. This issue affects all types of SDI and HDMI ports. But it is more likely with higher speed SDI ports such as 6G or 12G as they operate at higher frequencies and as a result the components used are more easily damaged as it is harder to protect them without degrading the high frequency performance.

Probably the most common cause of an SDI/HDMI port failure is the use of the now near ubiquitous D-Tap cable to power accessories connected to the camera. The D-Tap connector is sadly shockingly crudely designed. Not only is it possible to plug in many of the cheaper ones the wrong way around but with a standard D-Tap plug there is no mechanism to ensure that the negative or “ground” connection of the D-Tap cable makes or breaks before the live connection. There is a however a special but much more expensive D-Tap connector available that includes electronic protection against this very issue (although a great product, even these cannot totally provide protection from a poor ground connection) – see: https://lentequip.com/products/safetap

Imagine for a moment you are using a monitor that’s connected to your cameras SDI or HDMI port. You are powering the monitor via the D-Tap on the cameras battery as you always do and everything is working just fine. Then the battery has to be changed. To change the battery you have to unplug the D-Tap cable and as you pull the D-Tap out, the ground connection disconnects fractionally before the live connection. During that extremely brief moment there is still positive power going to the monitor but because the ground on the D-Tap is now disconnected the only ground route back to the battery becomes via the SDI cable through the camera. For a fraction of a second the SDI/HDMI cable becomes the power cable and that power surge blows the SDI driver chip.

After you have completed the battery swap, you turn everything back on and at first all appears good, but now you can’t get the SDI output to work. There’s no smoke, no burning smells, no obvious damage as it all happened in a tiny fraction of a second. The only symptom is a dead SDI.

And it’s not only D-Tap cables that can cause problems. A lot of the cheap DC barrel connectors have a center positive terminal that can connect before the outer barrel makes a good connection. There are many connectors where the positive can make before the negative.

You can also have problems if the connection between the battery and the camera isn’t perfect. A D-Tap connected directly to the battery might represent an easier route for power to flow back to the battery if there is any corrosion on the battery terminals or a loose batter plate or adapter.

It can also happen when powering the camera and monitor (or other SDI connected devices like a video transmitter) via separate mains adapters. The power outputs of most of the small, modern, generally plastic bodied switch mode type power adapters and chargers are not connected to ground. They have a positive and negative terminal that “floats” above ground at some unknown voltage. Each power supplies negative rail may be at a completely different voltage compared to ground.  So again an SDI cable connected between two devices, powered by different power supplies will act as the ground between them and power may briefly flow down the SDI cable as the SDI cables ground brings both power supply negative rails to the same common voltage. Failures this way are less common, but do still occur. 

For these reasons you should always connect all your power supplies, power cables, especially D-Tap or other DC power cables first. Avoid using adapters between the battery and the camera as each adapter plate is another possible cause of trouble.

Then while everything remains switched off the very last thing to connect should be the SDI or HDMI cables. Only when everything is connected should you turn anything on.

If unplugging or re-plugging a monitor (or anything else for that matter) turn everything off first. Do not connect or disconnect anything while any of the equipment is on.  Although to be honest the greatest risk is at the time you connect or disconnect any power cables such as when swapping a battery where you are using the D-Tap to power any accessories. So if changing batteries, switch EVERYTHING off first, then disconnect your SDI or HDMI cables before disconnecting the D-Tap or other power cables next. Seriously – you need to do this, disconnect the SDI or HDMI before changing the battery if the D-Tap cable has to be unplugged from the battery. Things are a little safer if any D-Tap cables are connected directly to the camera or a power plate that remains connected to the camera. This way you ca change the battery without needing to unplug the D-Tap cables and this does reduce the risk of issues.

Also inspect your cables regularly, check for damage to the pins and the cable, if you suspect it isn’t perfect – throw it away, don’t take the risk. 

(NOTE: It’s been brought to my attention that Red recommend that after connecting the power, but before connecting any SDI cables you should turn on any monitors etc. If the monitor comes on OK, this is evidence that the power is correctly connected. There is certainly some merit to this. However this only indicates that there is some power to the monitor, it does not ensure that the ground connection is 100% OK or that the ground voltages at the camera and monitor are the same. By all means power the monitor up to check it has power, then I still recommend that you turn it off again before connecting the SDI).
 
The reason Arri talk about shielded power cables is because most shielded power cables use connectors such as Lemo or Hirose where the body of the connector is grounded to the cable shield. This helps ensure that when plugging the power cable in it is the ground connection that is made first and the power connection after. Then when unplugging the power breaks first and ground after. When using properly constructed shielded power cables with Lemo or Hirose connectors it is much less likely that these issues will occur (but not impossible).

Is this an SDI/HDMI fault? No, not really. The fault lies in the choice of power cables that allow the power to make before the ground or the ground to break before the power breaks and a badly designed power connector often made as cheaply as possible.  Or the fault is with power supplies that have poor or no ground connection. Additionally you can put it down to user error. I know I’m guilty of rushing to change a battery and pulling a D-Tap connector without first disconnecting the SDI on many occasions, but so far I’ve mostly gotten away with it (I have blown an SDI on one of my Convergent Design Odysseys).

If you are working with an assistant or as part of a larger crew do make sure that everyone on set knows not to plug or unplug power cables or SDI cables without checking that it’s OK to do so – and always unplug the SDI/HDMI before disconnecting or removing anything else.
 
How many of us have set up a camera, powered it up, got a picture in the viewfinder and then plugged an SDI cable between the camera and a monitor that doesn’t have a power connection yet or already on and plugged in to some other power supply? Don’t do it! Plug and unplug in the right order – ALL power cables and power supplies first, check power is going to the camera, check power is going to the monitor, then turn it all off first, finally plug in the SDI.

New LUTs from Sony

Side-by-Side2_small-600x338 New LUTs from Sony

 

I was asked by Sony to produce a couple of new LUT’s for them. These LUT’s were inspired by many recent blockbuster movies and have been named “Space Adventure” and “Super Hero”.

Both LUT’s are available for free and there is a link on the page linked below that will allow you to obtain them.

Rather than explain the two different looks here go to this page on the Sony website https://pro.sony/en_GB/filmmaking/filmmaking-solutions/full-frame-cinematic-look

Scroll down to where it says “Stunning Cinematic Colour” and there you will find a video called “Orlaith” that shows both LUT’s applied to the same footage.

Orlaith is a gaelic name  and it is pronounced “orla”. It is the name of a mythical golden princess. The short film was shot on a teeny-tiny budget in a single evening with an FX3 and FX6 using S-Log3 and SGamut3.cine. Then the LUTs were applied directly to the footage with no further grading.




 

Beware Fake Sony BP-U Batteries!

Fake-real-bpu-600x225 Beware Fake Sony BP-U Batteries!Can you tell which is genuine and which is fake? It would appear that a number of fake BP-U batteries are starting to show up on ebay and other less reputable places. The battery on the left won’t charge on a genuine Sony charger, this tells me it is not a real Sony battery.

If you look at the labels on the batteries the quality of the printing on the fake battery on the left is not as fine as on the genuine battery, in particular the ® as well as the box around the level indicator LED’s is not as crisply and finely printed.

The sellers are clever. These are not so cheap as to raise suspicion, they just seem very competitively priced. These batteries might be a little bit cheaper, but how safe are they and how long will they last? I have to say this would have fooled me and I have a lot of sympathy for others that have been tricked into buying these. But if the manufacturer can’t sell these by legitimate means under their own brand name I really do have to question their quality and safety.

Thanks to Zachary Këpël for the use of his image.

3rd Party BP-U style batteries And Sony Camcorders (Update)

I wish to update and present the facts that I have regarding potential issues with mainly older 3rd party PB-U batteries. This isn’t here as a scare story, I’m not trying to sensationalise this, just present the facts that I have to hopefully clarify the current situation.

In 2019 I became aware that it was suddenly becoming very hard to buy 3rd party BP-U batteries. Dealers didn’t have any and you couldn’t find them anywhere. Talking to a couple of manufacturers I was informed that they had been told to stop making BP-U batteries.

Then I learnt from Sony that they had been getting an unusually large number of their more recent cameras in for repair, cameras that had suddenly and inexplicably stopped working. They traced this to design issues in some 3rd party batteries that resulted in power flowing through the batteries data pins, damaging beyond repair the cameras motherboard. It was not a case of a battery being inserted incorrectly, it was an issue with the circuitry in the battery.

As a result of this Sony took action in 2019 to prevent the manufacture of 3rd party BP-U batteries and that’s why you could no longer get them.

Since then however it would appear that the manufacture of 3rd party batteries is once again in full swing. In addition I’ve noticed that some older models have been discontinued, often with new versions replacing them, perhaps a “B” version or a model number numerically higher than before.

From this I must assume that whatever the issue was, it has now been resolved and that the 3rd party BP-U batteries on sale today should be perfectly safe to use with our cameras. I would have no hesitation in today buying a brand new BP-U battery from any of the reputable brands.

I have nothing to gain here. This is not a campaign to make you all buy Sony batteries. Even though Sony do make a very fine battery, I too use 3rd party batteries as I need the D-Tap port found only on 3rd party batteries.

But clearly there was a very real battery issue. I’m led to understand that the cost to repair these damaged cameras was over $1K. While not every user of these batteries ends up with a dead camera, I think you have to ask yourself – is it worth using batteries made in 2019 or earlier? I won’t list the batteries that I know to have problems because the list may be incomplete. Just because a battery is not on the list it would not be a guarantee that it’s safe. However if any 3rd party battery manufacturer is reading this and has the confidence to provide me with a list of batteries that they will guarantee are safe, I will gladly publish that (January 2022 and not one manufacture has provided any information).

Clearly not everyone ends up with a dead camera, perhaps the majority have no issue, but enough did that Sony had to take action and it appears that the manufacturers responded by checking and adjusting their designs if necessary.

So my advice is: Don’t use 3rd party batteries made prior to 2020.  

If you do, then make absolutely sure the camera is completely powered down when inserting or removing the battery. 

I believe that any BP-U battery made in 2020 or later should be safe to use. So please think about replacing any old batteries with new ones, or perhaps contact your battery supplier and ask if what you have is safe. However you should be aware that since 2019 Sony’s own BP-U battery chargers will no longer charge 3rd party batteries.

The information I have presented here is correct to the best of my knowledge and I hope you will use it to make your own decision about which batteries to use.

PXW-Z280 and Z190 Firmware Version 4 Adds RTMP Streaming.

Sony have today released version 4 firmware for the Z280 and Z190. This is a nice update for these cameras as it adds the ability to stream directly to platforms such as YouTube or Facebook using the RTMP or RTMPS protocol. There is no longer any need to go via an intermediate convertor such as OBS.

In addition the looks used in th HDR modes are adjusted to bring them into line with the latest cameras with HLG Natural and HDR Live.

You can download the firmware for the Z280 from here: https://pro.sony/en_FI/support-resources/pxw-z280/software/00257137

And you can download the Z190 firmware from here:
https://pro.sony/en_FI/support-resources/pxw-z190/software/00257141