I have been given an official statement from Sony about the image artefacts that some people are seeing from the PXW-FS5:
“Sony has investigated the PXW-FS5 image artifact issues reported by users. Our engineers have been able to duplicate these issues and identify their root cause. Sony plans to provide a firmware update. Our goal is to issue this revised firmware toward February/end.
To ensure that users achieve the best results from the FS5, Sony is also preparing guidelines to help professional shooters take full advantage of the FS5’s features, including S-Log and S-Gamut.”
My understanding is that this primarily relates to the edge tearing issue as well as the blocking type artefacts that can be seen, particularly at higher gain levels. It’s great to see solid proof that Sony do listen to us. They always have done, but often simply went away and investigated and fixed the issue without actually saying anything.
It does still need to be remembered that in UHD the camera is an 8 bit camera and this firmware update will not change that. Nor will it change the recording bit rate. I also do not expect to see a change of the cameras base ISO, so don’t expect to see any significant difference to the cameras noise levels. So while I am sure the firmware will bring a useful and welcome improvement to the image quality, you will still need to be careful how you shoot with the camera, especially in low light or with S-log in UHD. The user guides that are being prepared will hopefully address these areas.
Sony are making a very big effort to become more customer focussed. On Monday I was asked by Sony Europe to present a free webinar for customers that have registered their cameras with Sony Prime Support. Over the coming weeks and months there is going to be a lot of new content in the form of user guides, webinars, tutorials, videos etc on the Sony website. So if you haven’t bothered to register your camera with Sony Prime Support, now is the time to do it as this will give you free access to all this new content as it becomes available.
A busy day for Sony because as well as the version 3 firmware for the FS7 Sony have also released firmware version 7.01 for the PMW-F55 and F5. No, you didn’t miss version 7.0. Sony chose not to release version 7.0 as they wanted to incorporate some bug fixes into the first release of the generation 7 firmware.
This is another significant release as it include a whole new way of operating and controlling the camera from the side panel. The new menu system called “quick menu” includes 6 pages of key camera functions laid out in a simple and logical manner. It really does make the F5 and F55 cameras much simpler and faster to use.
The F55 camera also gains the ability to record Rec-2020 color in custom mode for compatibility with future TV standards. This gives baked in rec-2020 color in the same was as you have rec-709 color when you shoot with the camera set to rec-709. In Cine EI both the F5 and F55 can be set to S-Gamut or S-Gamut3 to record color ranges compatible with rec-2020 .
Both cameras gain an increased zebra range with zebras now going all the way down to 0% and the ability to record an interlaced HD proxy when shooting at 50p or 60p in 4K.
Good news. Firmware version 3.0 has just been released for the PXW-FS7. This is a major update for the FS7 and adds some important new features such as a 2K center scan mode that can be used to allow you to use super16 lenses or more importantly eliminate aliasing and moire when shooting above 60fps.
For users of the Cine-EI mode there are major improvements to the usability of the waveform display as this now works with most LUT combinations (but not in S&Q or when outputting 4K). In addition you can now enable noise reduction in Cine EI, although be aware that this may introduce banding artefacts in some situations.
Zebras now go all the way down to 0% so if you want you can use zebras to measure white or grey cards when shooting log or to measure the recommended skin tone levels for S-log (40-55%) and hypergamma (55-60%) recordings.
Also there is a proper time-lapse mode and some improvements to the quality of the raw recordings when using an external recorder raw such as the 7Q.
Rant time, so ignore this if you are not interested.
I run xdcam-user.com for free. I provide a wealth of guides, LUT’s documentation and articles for free. It costs readers of the site absolutely nothing.
All I ask in return is for those that want to say thank you to buy me a coffee or a beer in the form of a small paypal payment for a coffee or beer.
But sadly there are some people out there that either don’t read what it says immediately above and below the PayPal button or pay any attention to what is stated on the PayPal transaction page. It clearly states “buy Alister a coffee (beer etc)”.
They make the payment and then open a PayPal dispute when they don’t receive whatever it is they are expecting to receive and I have to go through the whole rigmarole of refunding them etc.
Come on people, READ what it says you are buying, you are buying me a coffee or a beer as a token of your appreciation for the time and effort that goes in to running this site and providing a free resource. The LUT packs, PDF’s and other downloads are all under free links.
And finally I do appreciate the coffee’s and beer’s, I really do. I’m sorry that I don’t get around to thanking everyone that makes a contribution but I only have a limited amount of time that I can spend on the website and I often have to spend that time answering questions, responding to comments, preparing new articles and moderating the forum to keep the thousands of spammers and hackers that target the site every day at bay.
So a big thanks to all that have made a contribution of any size, but a suggestion to READ THROUGH THE TRANSACTION DETAILS to those that then open a dispute.
I love my Convergent Design Odyssey 7Q! It’s a fantastic piece of kit. A first rate monitor, highly capable video recorder and a toolbox full of useful tools for the digital cinematographer. I can use it simply as a high grade OLED monitor to check my pictures or I can use it to record at higher quality levels than many internal recorders and then add LUT’s, cross convert from HDMI/SDI, down convert, superimpose a waveform display or zebras on the output and much more. One of my favourite functions is being able to connect it to both the A & B SDI outputs on the FS7 or F5/F55 and view BOTH the LUT’d output from the camera as well as the clean S-Log signal via the picture in picture function.
Right now Convergent Design are offering $500 off the base price and throwing in a free 256GB SSD. Thats really an impressive deal for a really great piece of kit.
Some of you may have noticed the new look to the website. Let me know if you like it or if you find any strange behaviour or problems loading pages. As well as a new look the site is now optimised for viewing on mobile devices such as phones and tablets.
In the last few days I have received a lot of questions along the lines of “which camera is going to be best for me” or “which monitor should I buy”? These are very common questions.
Before the internet, when you wanted a new camera you would either try one belonging to someone else or go to a camera store and try out the camera you were interested in for yourself. That way you could hold it in your hand (or on your shoulder), look through the viewfinder, take some clips and look at the picture quality. Today however it appears that a lot of very important purchasing decisions are being entirely based on online reviews and opinions. I can write a review and say “look how wonderful this camera is” because I think it is great. But just because I think it’s great doesn’t mean it’s going to be great for everyone else (I do try to consider other peoples needs and wishes, but I’m only human). Likewise someone else might say “this camera is rubbish” and of course they are completely entitled to express that view and if they think it’s rubbish, well…. then they think it’s rubbish. But those views and opinions are just that, opinions…. and yours may differ.
Once upon a time equipment dealers used to make quite respectable profit margins on the sale of an expensive video camera. Today however margins are very slim (often less than 5%) as online price cutting forces dealers into ever deeper discounts. As a result dealers are now often not able to lend you a camera to test. Many will still have demo units in their showrooms for you to play with, so support your local dealer, go to them and take a look at the camera (or whatever it is you are buying). Then buy from the dealer, that way you can build up a relationship with your dealer that can help when you need spares or accessories in a hurry. But what if the dealer doesn’t have a demo unit, what’s the solution in that case?
Hire a camera before you buy it. If you purchase a camera and then decide you don’t like it, sure you can sell it, but you’ll loose a lot more money than a days hire charge. Renting a camera for even just one day will allow you to put it’s through it’s paces. To hold it, shoot with it, test the workflow and look at the image quality. A days rental isn’t going to break the bank.
UPDATE: Following much debate and discussion in the comments section and on my Facebook feed I think one thing that has become clear is an important factor in this subject is the required end contrast. If you take S-Log3 which has a raised shadow range and shoot with it in low light you will gain a low contrast image. If you choose to keep the image low contrast then there is no accentuation of the recorded noise in post and this can bring an acceptable and useable result. However if you need to grade the S-log3 to gain the same contrast as a dedicated high contrast gamma such as 709, then the lack of recorded data can make the image become coarser than it would be if recorded by a narrow range gamma. Furthermore many other factors come into play such as how noisy the camera is, the codec used, bit depth etc. So at the end of the day my recommendation is to not assume log will be better, but to test both log and standard gammas in similar conditions to those you will be shooting in.
Log gamma curves are designed for one thing and one thing only, to extend the dynamic range that can be recorded. In order to be able to record that greater dynamic range all kinds of compromises are being made.
Lets look at a few facts.
Amount of picture information: The amount of picture information that you can record, i.e. the amount of image samples, shades or data points is not determined by the gamma curve. It is determined by the recording format or recording codec. For example a 10 bit codec can store up to 1023 shades or code values while an 8 bit codec can record up to 255 shades or code values (in practice this is a maximum of 235 shades as 16 are used for sync). It doesn’t matter which gamma curve you use, the 10 bit codec will contain more usable picture information than the 8 bit codec. The 10 bit picture will have over 1000 shades while the 8 bit one less than 255. For low light more “bits” is always going to be better than less as noise can be recorded more faithfully. If noise is recorded with only a few shades or code values it will look coarse and ugly compared to noise recorded with lots more levels which will look smoother.
Bottom line though is that no matter what gamma curve, the maximum amount of picture information is determined by the codec or recording format. It’s a bit of a myth that log gives you more data for post, it does not, it gives you a broader range.
Log extends the dynamic range: This is the one thing that log is best know for. Extending the dynamic range, but this does not mean we have more picture information, all it means is we have a broader range. So instead of say a 6 or 7 stop range we have a 14 stop range. That range increase is not just an increase in highlight range but also a corresponding increase in shadow range. A typical rec-709 camera can “see” about 3 or 4 stops below middle grey before the image is deemed to be too noisy and any shades or tone blend into one. An S-log2 or S-log3 camera can see about 8 stops below middle grey before there is nothing else to see but noise. However the lower 2 or 3 stops of this extended range really are very noisy and it’s questionable as to how useful they really are.
Imagine you are shooting a row of buildings (each building representing a few stops of dynamic range). Think of standard gammas as a standard 50mm lens. It will give you a great image but it won’t be very wide, you might only get one or two buildings into the shot, but you will have a ton of detail of those buildings.
Shot of buildings taken with standard lens, think “standard gamma”
Think of a wide dynamic range gamma such as S-log as a wide angle lens. It will give you a much wider image taking in several buildings and assuming the lens is of similar quality to the 50mm lens, the captured pictures will appear to be of similar quality. But although you have a wider view the level of detail for each building will be reduced. You have a wider range, but each individual building has less detail
Buildings shot with 20 mm wide lens. Think “wide gamma” or log gamma.
But what if in your final scene you are only going to show one or two buildings and they need to fill the frame? If you shoot with the wide lens you will need to blow the image up in post to the show just the buildings you want. Blowing an image up like this results in a lower quality image. The standard lens image however won’t need to be blown up, so it will look better. Log is just the same. While you do start off with a wider range (which may indeed be highly beneficial) each element or range of shades within that range has less data than if we had shot with a narrower gamma.
Wide lens (think wide gamma) cropped to match standard lens (think standard gamma). Note the loss of quality compared to starting with standard.
Using log in low light is the equivalent of using a wide angle lens to shoot a row of buildings where you can actually only see a few of the buildings, the others being invisible and then blowing up that image to fill the frame. The reality is you would be better off using the standard lens and filing the frame with the few visible building, thus saving the need to blow up the image.
Shooting a scene where most of it is dark with wide lens (wide gamma/log) wastes a lot of data.Using a narrower lens (narrow or standard gamma) wastes less data and the information that is captured is of higher quality.
S-Log2/3 has a higher base ISO: On a Sony camera this higher ISO value is actually very miss-leading because the camera isn’t actually any more sensitive in log. The camera is still at 0dB gain, even though it is being rated at a higher ISO. The higher ISO rating is there to offset an external light meter to give you the darker recording levels normally used for log. Remember a white card is recorded at 90% with standard gammas, but only 60% with log. When you change the ISO setting upwards on a light meter it will tell you to close down the aperture on the camera, that then results in the correct darker log exposure.
S-Log3 may appear at first brighter than standard gammas when you switch to it. This is because it raises the very bottom of the log curve and puts more data into the shadows. But the brighter parts of the image will be no brighter than with a camera with standard gammas at 0db gain. This extra shadow data may be beneficial for some low light situations, so if you are going to use log in low light S-Log3 is superior to S-Log2.
If you can’t get the correct exposure with log, don’t use it! Basically if you can’t get the correct exposure without adding gain or increasing the ISO don’t use log. If you can’t get your midrange up where it’s supposed to be then you are wasting data. You are not filling your codec or recording format so a lot of data available for picture information is being wasted. Also consider that because each stop is recorded with less data with log not only is the picture information a bit coarser but so too is any noise. If you really are struggling for light, your image is likely to be a bit dark and thus have a lot of noisy and coarse noise is not nice. Log has very little data allocated to the shadows in order to free up data for the highlights because one of the key features of log is the excellent way it handles highlights as a result an under exposed log image is going to lack even more data. So never under expose log.
Chart showing S-Log2 and S-Log3 plotted against f-stops and code values. Note how little data there is for each of the darker stops, the best data is above middle grey.
Think of log as the opposite of standard gammas. With standard gammas you always try never to over expose and often being very slightly under exposed is good. But log must never be under exposed, there is not enough data in the shadows to cope with under exposure. Meanwhile log has more data in the highlights, so is very happy to be a little over exposed.
My rule of thumb is quite simple. If I can’t fully expose log at the base sensitivity I don’t use it. I will drop down to a cinegamma or hypergamma. If I can’t correctly expose the hypergamma or cinegamma then I drop down to standard gamma, rec-709.
One thing that’s becoming very clear with the on-going FS5 discussions is that the use of ISO with video camera is confusing the hell out of people. ISO is an almost meaningless sensitivity measure for a video camera. Especially with a video camera that uses different types of gamma curves. The ISO rating is there so that when you use an external light meter you will get the correct exposure, but it doesn’t necessarily tell you a great deal about the cameras actual sensitivity.
Take a Sony S-log camera. If you set the camera to 0dB gain and expose white card or piece of paper using standard gamma correctly (white at 90%), then still at 0dB gain switch to S-log does the piece of paper get brighter? The answer is NO it does not. White will drop to about 70% depending on the log curve chosen. That should be telling you that the actual sensitivity of the camera is NOT changing. If you set the camera to ISO, the ISO indication will change from 1000 ISO to 3200 ISO when you switch between standard gamma and log on an FS5 for example, but these are both 0dB gain and the picture brightness does not significantly change when you switch between standard gamma and log (the picture does become flatter, don’t confuse this for “brighter”. Use a waveform or histogram and measure the levels of a fully exposed scene).
If in both cases, S-Log and Standard Gamma, the gain is 0dB, even thought the ISO rating is changing, the actual sensitivity of the camera is not changing, the only thing that’s changing is the shape of the gamma curve.
The ISO rating changes because for normal gammas you would expose white at 90% while for log it is exposed darker at 60%. So if using an external light meter you want the light meter to tell you to close the aperture relative to standard gammas so that white ends up at 60% (the lower white level makes space for more dynamic range above white).
When you change your external light meter from 1000 ISO to 3200 ISO the light meter will tell you to close the aperture by a stop and a half and that will give you that correct and now darker log exposure.
This is why I hate the use of ISO in video cameras because it is miss-leading people. The FS5 (and the same applies to the FS7, F5, F55 etc) isn’t actually any more sensitive to light in log than in standard gammas (video camera sensitivity is governed by the sensors efficiency at converting light into electrons and we cannot change the sensor). Neither does it have any more gain at 3200 ISO in log compared to 1000 ISO in standard gammas. Both are 0dB. That’s why when you shoot at 3200 ISO in Log you don’t get any more noise and you don’t get any additional NR artefacts…. because the camera isn’t actually becoming any more sensitive and it’s not adding any extra gain, it’s just a rating change to make sure an external light meter would give you the correct log exposure. If people actually went back and used the correct and appropriate terms for video cameras: ie: dB we wouldn’t have all this stupid confusion, it would be obvious that 0dB = 0dB. The gain and thus sensitivity in standard gammas with 0dB is actually the same as in Log at 0dB. If people actually took the time to look at their monitors it would also be pretty obvious that the sensitivity does not change.
Sadly all this is resulting in some pretty ridiculous statements like: I use log in low light because it’s the only way I can get 3200 ISO without adding extra noise. The reality is that the only thing that’s really changing is the little number on the viewfinder overlay, in standard gamma it says 1000, in log it says 3200. But the sensitivity and noise levels are not changing. S-Log3 does give raised shadows, but those raised shadows will show more noise due to the raised shadow levels, but for a like-for-like brightness they are no more noisy than any other gamma. Using the wrong terminology or miss-understanding how a video camera works is resulting in very silly mistakes. Once upon a time video camera operators used to rely on monitors and waveform displays to get exposure and gain levels right. But this isn’t cool anymore because we are all now “Directors of Photography” and DP’s don’t use gain or shutter speeds they use ISO and angles. This is nonsense and the desire to sound hip and cool is resulting in poor or miss-guided camera operation.
Following on from the ongoing discussions about the way the noise reduction on the PXW-FS5 works I’d like to try to answer a few points that have been raised.
Noise reduction is incorporated in to almost every single video camera on the market today. Without it cameras would not be achieving the sensitivity levels that we are becoming accustomed to. Big sensors have helped increase sensitivity, but noise reduction also plays a major part. 4 years ago the typical sensitivity of a video camera was around the equivalent of 300 ISO. Today 1000 ISO is common. The laws of physics have not changed but image processing has.
However image processing has limitations. Noise reduction is a trade off as it typically introduces other artefacts including blurring or softening of the image, smearing of the image when there is motion, posterisation, blockiness or banding.
The more noise you introduce into the image the harder the NR has to work and as a result the worse, or more noticeable the artefacts will become.
Every time you add 6dB of gain (or double the ISO) of a sensor you will also double the underlying noise level, that is a very significant noise increase.
Different sensors will exhibit different noise characteristics. A sensor with a very high pixel count may exhibit finer grain, but may be less sensitive, have aliasing issues, skew issues or heat problems. A sensor with fewer pixels may have coarser grain but be more sensitive have fewer aliasing issues, fewer skew issues and be less prone to overheating. A sensor with an excess of pixels compared to the final image resolution may be easier to noise reduce as the excess sensor resolution can be used during the NR process without degrading the end image, but the high pixel count may introduce some of the other issues listed above.
So to get an image with an acceptable noise level, low skew, a desirable level of sensitivity without overheating is a very fine balancing act. Different cameras will perform differently and each will have strength’s and weaknesses. A Sony A7S has big pixels, so it’s very sensitive and only needs low levels of NR at the base sensitivity compared to say an FS7 with it’s smaller pixels. But the A7S suffers from a lot of image skew that is unacceptable for many types of video production plus there are heat issues when shooting for long periods. Meanwhile the FS7, while less sensitive has very, very low skew levels and no overheating.
But what about the new PXW-FS5? There is much discussion about the noise reduction in this camera. First of all it is a different camera to any other. So it will not perform the same as any other. It uses a different combination of sensor and processing to any other camera on the market.
Does it perform as well as an A7R in low light? Actually it’s not all that different in terms of base sensitivity. What about if you add gain? Well the image quality of both cameras deteriorates when you add gain. Both become noisier and both have more NR artefacts. The A7RII is possibly a better performer in terms of noise and artefacts, maybe due to the higher pixel count allowing the use of a lot of pixel binning. Does this mean that the FS5 is somehow broken or defective? No, it just means that the A7RII has the edge in low light. Do remember that the A7RII suffers from a lot of image skew, really appalling flash band issues and overheats on long shots. Does that mean the A7RII is broken, because after all the FS5 doesn’t have these issues problems. Of course not, these are just limitations of these two very different cameras.
Anyway coming back to the noise reduction. As we can’t actually turn off the NR on the FS5 it’s hard to understand exactly how beneficial it is, even though it does introduce some inevitable artefacts (NR will always have undesirable side effects), especially when you add more than 6dB of gain. But we can get some clues. The edge tearing artefact that can be see on vertical motion at high gain levels appears to simply be noise leaking through the temporal NR when there is a lot of vertical motion, and it’s pretty obvious that there’s actually a lot of noise being hidden.
Why does this only occur in 4K? Well that’s probably because in HD the camera has a surplus of sensor resolution, so different noise reduction processes that soften the image can be used instead of temporal NR as the softening won’t be noticed in HD.
Another clue as to how well the NR works is that if you quickly switch the gain switch from one gain level to another it takes a couple of frames for the temporal NR to catch up so for one or two frames the temporal NR level is reduced (not eliminated just reduced a bit). If you look at these frames it gives some insight into how amazingly effective the temporal NR is and as well as temporal NR the FS5 is also employing spatial NR, so this is only part of the story.
I have a couple of frame grabs. One is a frame where the temporal NR is stabilised and doing it’s thing reducing the noise in the picture. This is with +12 dB of gain applied and to be honest it’s a pretty clean looking image for a 4000 ISO shot, imagine adding +24dB gain to an EX1 or PMW-500 to get up to 4000 ISO and what that would look like! The other frame is a frame grabbed as the camera is switching between +6dB to +12dB, so what you are seeing is about 6dB’s worth of temporal noise reduction. Just look at all that very nasty looking noise. Notice the very blocky areas in the shadows, in motion these can be seen to be fluttering from frame to frame as the NR kicks in, it’s really nasty. The noise is having a serious impact on the image resolution. On the far left table leg in the close up you can no longer see the wood grain. Now imagine what at least double if not 3 times that would look like because if you were to shoot at 3200 ISO with the standard gammas without NR, that’s what it’s going to look like. It would almost certainly overload the internal coded resulting in compression artefacts that you won’t see while shooting, only when you play the footage back when quite possibly it’s too late to do anything about it.
So next time you look at a noise reduction artefact do think about just how dreadful the image would look without any NR. We are not talking about seeing a little bit more noise and grain with reduced NR but a blizzard of noise and grain. It’s also worth remembering that all the camera manufacturers are doing this. Also consider what a typical 1/2″ or 2/3″ broadcast camera would look like with +24dB of gain added, it really would be unusable, yet the FS5 can deliver an image at 4000ISO that is really not all that bad. It’s not perfect, it does have some artefacts but really it’s quite remarkable what a camera like this can do thanks to modern noise reduction processes and large sensors.
Stable noise reduction at +12dB gain.Frame grab between +6dB and +12dB gain before the temporal noise reduction has fully kicked in.FS5 at +12dB gain.Single frame during the transition from +6dB gain to +12dB gain before the noise reduction has fully kicked in. Notice all the extra noise, now at least double this if you want an idea of how much noise the NR is dealing with when shooting at 3200 ISO with a standard gamma.
Temporal NR: Temporal noise reduction works by taking a single pixel and measuring it’s average output over several frames. Using this average value a correction can be applied to the current frame that helps reduce the instantaneous brightness fluctuations that are seen as noise. However if there is motion in that area this can create nasty local blurring or smearing effects. On option is to include a process that detects motion and locally reduces or eliminates the noise reduction during motion to counter the smear or blurring. Either way motion in the image introduces undesirable artefacts.
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