All posts by alisterchapman

Improve the accuracy of manual white balance with the FX6 and FX9.

Have you ever struggled to get a decent white balance from a white or grey card with the Sony FX6, FX9 or in fact many other cameras (this method works equally well for the FS7, FS5, F5 and F55 etc)? Well here is a very simple trick that can really help, especially for those situations where the camera is a long way from the scene and a white card is too small in the frame for an accurate reading.

All you need to do is to cut a square hole in a piece of black card or plastic. Then when you want to take your white balance simply hold the mask in front of the lens so that it masks out the background of the shot leaving just your white card visible. It’s really simple, really easy and it really works! 

New Free LUT for Sony Cameras -Solitude

It’s Black Friday, so here is my Black Friday offer – a new free LUT.

Solitude is a new free LUT for any Sony camera that shoots using S-Log3 and SGamut3.cine. This is the second in a series of 3 free LUTs that I am releasing between now and Christmas. The first was Elixir which gives a rich film like look. Solitude is closely related to Elixir but gives a cooler more metalic look. I believe it is suitable for gritty drama or anything needing a cooler less warm look.  To see my free LUT collection and to download any of my free LUTs including both Elixir and Solitude follow this link – https://www.xdcam-user.com/picture-settings-and-luts/alisters-free-luts/

Origins of the term “High Key” in video lighting.

You’ve probably heard the term High Key as well as Low Key a million times in the world of photography, video and film. But where exactly does the term come from and what exactly does it mean?

I had to ask myself this today when during a discussion about a future shoot it was stated that we would shoot some low key scenes. But I wasn’t really 100% certain in my own mind what the director meant. Does it mean dark? Does it mean a low key light level (relative to the background), or is it the positioning of the key light?

This isn’t a term that’s new to me, I’ve come across it many times, but I’ve never particularly liked the term because it always seems to mean slightly different things to different people, so you can never be sure what they really mean.

KEY LIGHT

First of all what is a “key light”? Generally the key light is the main source or most important source of light in a scene. I don’t know the origins of the term or how long it’s been in common use, but it seems to be a relatively new term specific to photography and video.

WHAT DOES GOOGLE SAY?

When I googled “High Key Lighting” I got a range of equally confusing descriptions of what it is. On Wikipedia for example, high key is described as

“High-key lighting is usually quite homogeneous and free from dark shadows”.

OK, so that implies that low Key, being the opposite should have dark shadows and not be homogeneous – ie. high contrast. And this doesn’t really seem to match what a lot of people consider low key to be as many state that low key means overall dark. Elsewhere I came across all sorts of frankly bizarre definitions of high key such as….

“High-key lighting creates a clean focus on the center of attention” 

and then in another article it stated that

“it means that when you use a high-key setup, the key light is stronger than the fill lights……     …….So usually, the shot has very little to no shadows present. 

Hmmm… OK, let’s think about that – if you have a key light that is stronger than the fill your likely to have lots of shadows, cast by the strong key light. The main role of a fill light is to fill in shadow areas, but if the key is stronger than the fill – shadows will be present and the image contrasty and generally high contrast is described as low key. Are you confused yet?

Well, at least I know I am not the only one not entirely sure what these terms that get thrown around all over the place truly mean. Let’s face it if I said I was going to make my shots “contrasty” or with “deep shadows” or perhaps “flat” I am sure everyone would be on the same page.  But “Low Key” what does it mean? Is it just dark? Is it contrasty? Is it flat? And what is unique or special about Low Key that it needs a special name instead of just being called high contrast.

The above image is of the painting Salome with the Head of John the Baptist by Caravaggio(1610). This image is generally considered Low Key. The mains source of light, the key light, appears to be quite strong, like sunlight through a window, appearing to come from above and to the left of frame.

Let’s imagine for a moment that the ratio between the Key light and rest of the scene is 8:1. This ratio is often quoted as the minimum for low key and indicates a key that is bright relative to the background.  The high contrast ratio between the bright key light and the rest of the scene  ensures the background appears as very dark relative to the foreground. But one thing remains, the key light is bright, not dim. The level of the key light is high, not low compared to the rest of the scene. So where does the term low key come from, how does a bright key get called low key?

The term Low key has been used in music for a very long time to mean a quiet or deep tone, but I don’t think the image above could be called “quiet” and low key lighting doesn’t always mean very dark, it normally means high contrast and often includes very bright highlights.

Here’s what I think…

I’d like to offer up an idea of where the term high key actually comes from when applied to photography and video:
TV soap and episodic multi-camera lighting.

Perhaps when we use the term high key today it is a discombobulation of different concepts and terms and that is why there is often confusion. 

Traditionally daytime episodic TV has always been shot quickly using multiple cameras. To make this possible the lights are normally up above the set suspended from the ceiling on some form of grid or truss system. This ensures that the lights are not seen by any camera whichever angle they are shooting from. In addition the lighting will generally not cast deep shadows so that you can shoot from multiple angles without issue. The key lights would be up high, there would be low contrast and deep shadows were not desirable (because older TV cameras couldn’t handle high contrast).

At the same time in the world of cinema where a single camera is often used and high dynamic range was less of an issue, cinematographers were not afraid of casting shadows and using lights lower down on floor stands.

Typically TV lighting is described as high key and typically TV lighting uses key lights high up on a truss. Does the term high key stem from that typical approach to TV lighting with high up key lights, minimising shadows?

The the opposite of high key will be low key where perhaps the key light is creating a lot more contrast, where the key is brighter than the fill. If you create high contrast using lights high up the shadows will be under the actors chins and eye sockets will be dark, not a good look. But move the lights lower, light more from the side and you get the look seen in the Caravaggio painting above, the key light is lower. Is this where the origins of these terms as – the hight of the key light?

high up, TV style key lights giving bright but flat look that works well for TV production while a lower, perhaps side on key light creates contrast across the scene in a more film like manner, creating a sense of depth due to the darker background?

So, in summary:
High Key = Uniform lighting of both foreground and background with minimal shadows. But could be either overall bright or overall dark, often with the key light(s), of which there may be many, placed high above the scene/set so you can shoot the scene from any angle.

Low Key: A relatively bright key light so that there is contrast between the key lighting and the rest of the scene/shot. Overall the scene may be bright or dark, but it will have high contrast and shadow areas. Possibly the key light will be at a lower level so the low level key light  will cast shadows across faces and objects to provide depth and modelling.

So many descriptions of High Key and Low Key simply refer to the overall brightness of the scene, this is not correct. A low key scene MUST contain areas of great brightness in order to have the contrast associated with low key. All too often stating that the term High Key comes from the use of a bright key light over simplifies the situation to the point where it is no longer clear what is meant because to create nice looking Low Key you will will often need a bright key light.

Please discuss in the comments.

 

HELP! There is banding in my footage – or is there?

I’ve written about this before, but it’s worth bringing up again as I keep coming across people that are convinced there is a banding issue with their camera or their footage. Most commonly they have shot a clear blue sky or a plain wall and when they start to edit or grade their content they see banding in the footage.

Most of the cameras on the market today have good quality 10 bit codecs and there is no reason why you should ever see banding in a 10 bit recording, it’s actually fairly uncommon in 8 bit recordings unless they are very compressed or a lot of noise reduction has been used.

So – why are these people seeing banding in their footage? 

99% of the time it is because of their monitoring. 

Don’t be at all surprised if you see banding in footage if you view the content on a computer monitor or other monitor connected via a computers own HDMI port or a graphics card HDMI port. When monitoring this way it is very, very common to see banding that isn’t really there. If this is what you are using there will be no way to be sure whether any banding you see is real or not (about the only exception to this is the screen of the new M1 laptops). There are so many level translations between the colourspace and bit depth of the source video files, the computer desktop, the HDMI output and the monitors setup that banding is often introduced somewhere in the chain. Very often the source clips will be 10 bit YCbCr, the computer might be using a 16 bit or 24 bit colour mode and then the  HDMI might only be 8 bit RGB. Plus the gamma of the monitor may be badly matched and the monitor itself of unknown quality.

For a true assessment of whether footage has banding or not you want a proper, good quality video monitor connected via a proper video card such as a Blackmagic Decklink card or a device such as a BlackMagic UltraStudio product. When using a proper video card (not a graphics card) you bypass all the computer processing and go straight from the source content to the correct output. This way you will go from the 10 bit YCbCr direct to a 10 bit YCbCr output so there won’t be extra conversion and translation stages adding phantom artefacts to your footage.

If you are seeing banding, to try to understand whether the banding you are seeing is in the original footage or not try this: Take the footage into your grading software, using a paused (still) frame enlarge the clip so that the area with banding fills the monitor and note exactly where the edges of the bands are. Then slowly change the contrast of the clip. If the position of the edges of the bands moves, they are not in the original footage and something else is causing them. If they do not move, then they are baked in to the original material.

Bright Tangerine Black Friday Sale

Bright Tangerine are a UK based supplier of support equipment for professional film and video cameras – and one of my site sponsors. Their products are designed and manufactured in the UK in their own facility. Keeping everything in house allows them to react to end user feedback and market changes very quickly. Their unique Left Field base plate system is both versatile and incredibly stable.
With the FX6 finally shipping from Sony in good volumes a lot of people will be looking for base plates, top plates, a better viewfinder support and matte boxes, so their Black Friday sale may be a great opportunity to pick up some really high quality accessories at a great price.  I will be reviewing their latest FX6 accessories very soon. I have been using them myself and I can assure you they are all great. I’m a Left Field convert and am now moving away from VCT plates etc. due to the increased stability and flexibility. Click Here to see what they have to offer in their sale which starts Monday 21st of November 2022 .


Sony FX30 Version 1.01 and FX3 version 2.01 Update – WAIT!!

Sony released a minor update for the FX3 and FX30 cameras but almost immediately withdrew the firmware. If you have already downloaded the update package I recommend you do not install it.  There may be a bug in the firmware. Sony are investigating to understand whether there is a bug or something else causing an issues that some users have reported. So for now, don’t do the FX30 version 1.01 or the FX3 version 2.01 update, wait until Sony have had a chance to look into the situation. It remains safe to continue to update version 1 FX3 cameras  to Version 2.00, it is only FX3 version 2.01 and FX30 version 1.01 that is affected.

New LUT for Sony cameras and S-Log3 – Elixir

I’ve added a new LUT for S-Log3 and SGamut3.cine to my free LUT collection. The new LUT is called Elixir and is the first LUT from a collection of 3 new LUTs with similar contrast and brightness but quite different colours that I will be releasing between now and the end of the year.  Elixir is designed for short film projects and drama to provide rich colours with pleasing skin tones. Blues are shifted slightly teal, but there is no distracting colour cast, just pleasing colours with mid to high contrast. The LUT can be used with any Sony camera that has S-Log3 and SGamut3.cine, so that includes the whole of the Cinema Line including the FX6, FX3 and FX30 as well as cameras like the FS5 and FS7. For more information and to download this or any of my free LUTs please go to the LUT page: https://www.xdcam-user.com/picture-settings-and-luts/alisters-free-luts/

Removing Screws From Sony Cameras

Although I wouldn’t normally recommend removing the screws from Sony cameras there are times when this is something you need to do, for example to remove the microphone mount on an FX6.

Most of the small screws have a thread locking compound applied to the threads to prevent them from shaking or vibrating loose. This can make them hard to unscrew. 

JIS NOT Phillips!!

The main issue is that most cross of the commonly found small and miniature head screw drivers are manufactured to the “Philips” standard. But the screws used on the Sony cameras are manufactured to the JIS standard. The differences between these two very similar looking standards means that you will not get a secure and tight fit between a Philips screw driver and a JIS screw head. The edges of a Philips screwdriver are at an angle that is too shallow to properly engage with the full depth of a JIS screw head. So when you try to undo a tight screw the head of the screw will deform or strip, often  to the point where it can’t be undone.

Whenever working on Sony cameras you should use JIS standard screwdrivers and ensure the screwdriver is the correct size for the screws you are working with. The smaller screws used for thing like the microphone mount on the FX and Alpha series cameras are JIS size +0 or +00. A JIS size +0 seems to fit most but I would also get a +00.

Don’t try to use a miniature Philips screwdriver on a tight JIS screw. It might look like it fits, but only a very small part of the screwdriver head will be correctly engaged with the JIS screw and once the screw head is damaged you can’t undo the damage and it may become impossible to remove the screw without drilling it out. 

If you search for “Vessel JIS” you should be able to find good quality small and miniature JIS  screwdrivers on Amazon, ebay or from other suppliers.


Great deals on Venice 2 cameras at Omega Broadcast, Austin USA.

My good friends at Omega Broadcast in Austin, Texas have Venice 2 8K cameras complete with all the accessories such as the viewfinder, licences and AXS media normally needed for a full kit in stock and ready to go if anyone is looking for one. I highly recommend Omega, they are great people to deal with. They also have FX9’s, FX3’s and FX30, plus I’m sure if you drop them a message or give them a call they will be able to let you know when they will next have more FX6’s in stock.

https://www.omegabroadcast.com/

PXW-FX9 Firmware Version 4 available for download.

Sony have released the version 4 firmware update for the FX9. This update adds a number of new features related to their C3 Cloud Portal such as cloud management of LUT’s. One of the new features is included in the image above, can you spot it?

To bring the FX9 in line with the FX30, FX3 and FR7 Cinema Line cameras it gains the ability to automatically store the LUT you use when shooting in the CineEI mode on the XQD card along with the existing metadata about the EI used. This then allows the LUT to be applied to your footage automatically and with the correct exposure offset in post production. HOWEVER the only application that currently supports this is Sony’s Catalyst Browse. We can only hope that other edit and grading manufacturers will make use of the embedded LUT and metadata to do the same in future updates as it makes the post production process very easy, especially for fast turn around jobs or when handing the footage over to clients.

One issue addressed in this update is that when using proxies if you switch to S&Q recording, as before, proxy recording will stop. But now when you come back out of S&Q the proxy recording will resume automatically.

And we now get assignable buttons that light up when the function attached to them is enabled. Not every function will cause them to light up, but as an example if you enable S&Q button 1 now lights up. I have cache record assigned to button 8 and when enabled, button 8 lights up orange as in the image above. It’s a nice feature, but why has it taken so long to enable it?

As with previous FX9 firmware updates the update process can be a little nerve wracking as the LCD screen will go blank for quite a few minutes, giving the impression it may have stopped and this update sat at 57% for a very long time before continuing. Whatever you do don’t turn the camera off,  WAIT. It can take up to an hour for the update to complete. See this video on how to do an FX9 update.



You can download the firmware from here – FX9 Version 4 Firmware.

Whats included in Version 4 for the FX9.
– C3 Portal integration improvements
    Cloud service management of 3D LUT files is supported.
    Cloud service management of ALL files is supported.
    Uploading an original file automatically is supported.
– Shooting workflow improvements
    LUT data (Cube data) can now be recorded as metadata.
– Audio level meter CH1/CH2 and CH3/CH4 indicator switching support
– Assignable button support for switching the audio monitor channel
– Assignable button flashing indication support
– Changes to proxy recording control when switching Slow & Quick Motion settings