What is EXPOSURE?

Before diving into ISO, I think it’s first important to understand what exposure is. Exposure is the amount of light you put on to a sensor or film stock. Exposure is NOT brightness, brightness is – brightness. I can take an image in to post production and make it brighter or darker, but this doesn’t change how the image was exposed. Exposure is very specifically – how much light is allowed to hit the sensor or film stock and this is usually controlled by the shutter speed, aperture as well as perhaps ND filters.

What is ISO?

Once upon a time the meaning of ISO was quite clear. It was a standardised sensitivity rating for the film stock you were using. If you wanted more sensitivity, you used film with a higher ISO rating. But today the meaning of ISO is less clear. And lets not forget, we can’t swap our sensors out for more or less sensitive ones. So what does ISO mean given that we can’t actually change the sensor?

ISO is short for International Standards Organisation. And they specify many, many different standards for many different things. For example ISO 3166 is for telephone country codes, ISO 50001 is for energy management.

But in our world of film and TV there are two main ISO standards that we have blended into one and we just call it “ISO”.

ISO 5800:2001 is the system used to determine the sensitivity of color negative film found by plotting the density of the film against exposure to light.

ISO 12232:2006 specifies the method for assigning and reporting ISO speed ratings, ISO speed latitude ratings, standard output sensitivity values, and recommended exposure index values, for electronic cameras.

Note a key difference:

ISO 5800 is the measurement of the actual sensitivity to light of film.

ISO 12232 is a standardised way to report the speed rating, ie: it is not actually a direct sensitivity measurement.

So, from the above we can deduce that with film ISO is an actual sensitivity measurement. With an electronic camera it is a speed rating, not a measurement of the sensitivity, a rating.

Different Approaches and REI.

Within the digital camera ISO rating system there are 5 different standards that a camera manufacturer can use when obtaining the ISO rating of a camera. The most commonly used method is the Recommended Exposure Index (REI) method, which allows the manufacturer to specify a camera model’s base ISO arbitrarily, based on what the manufacturer believes produces a satisfactory image. So it’s not actually a measure of the cameras sensitivity, but a rating that if entered into a standard external light meter and the shutter and aperture values from the light meter used to set the exposure will result in satisfactory looking image.
This is very different to a sensitivity measurement and variations in opinion as to what is “a satisfactory image” will vary from person to person, manufacturer to manufacturer. For example – how much noise is considered acceptable? I know a lot of people with very different opinions on this! So, there is a lot of scope for movement as to how an electronic camera might be rated and we see this in the real world where two cameras both rated at the same ISO may have very different noise levels when exposed “correctly”.

You Can’t Change the Silicon!

As you cannot change the sensor in a digital camera, you cannot change the cameras efficiency at converting light into electrons which is largely determined by the materials used and the physical construction of the sensor. So, you cannot change the actual sensitivity of the camera to light. But we have all seen how the ISO number of most digital cameras can normally be increased (and sometimes lowered) from the base ISO number.

Higher and Lower ISO values.

Raising and lowering the ISO rating in an electronic camera is normally done by adjusting the amplification of the signal coming from the sensor, typically referred to as “gain” in the camera. It’s not actually a physical change in the cameras sensitivity to light. It is more like turning up the volume on an analog radio to make the music louder. Dual ISO cameras that claim not to add gain when switching between ISO’s typically do this by an adjustment at the sensors pixel level and this is closer to an actual sensitivity change. But generally this only gives two levels, not the multitude of ISO values offed by most cameras. While it is true that Dual ISO is different to a gain shift, it does typically alter the noise levels with the higher base ISO being slightly more noisy than the lower. With a true dual ISO sensor does do is produce the same dynamic range at both ISO’s.

Noise and Signal To Noise Ratio.

Most of the noise in the pictures we shoot comes from the sensor and sensor readout circuits and this noise level coming from the sensor is largely unchanged no matter what you do.

So, the biggest influence on the signal to noise ratio or SNR is the amount of light you put on the sensor because more light = more signal. The noise remains but with more light the signal is bigger so you get a better signal to noise ratio, up to the point where the sensor clips at which point adding more light makes no further difference.

But what about low light?

To obtain a brighter image when there the light levels are low and the picture coming from the sensor looks dark the signal coming from the sensor can be boosted or amplified (gain is added) by increasing the cameras ISO value. This extra signal amplification makes both the desirable signal bigger but at the same time as the noise cannot be separated form the image the noise also gets bigger by the same amount. If we make the desirable picture 2 times brighter we also make the noise 2 x bigger/brighter. As a result the picture will be brighter but the noise will appear greater than an exposure where we had enough light to get the brightness we want and didn’t need to add gain or raise the ISO.

More gain = less dynamic range.

The signal to noise ratio deteriorates because the added amplification means the recording will clip more readily. Something that was right at the recordings clip point without adding gain may will end up above the clip point by adding gain. As a result the highlight range you can record reduces while at the same time the noise gets bigger. But the optimum exposure is now achieved with less light so the equivalent ISO number is increased. If you were using a light meter you would increase the ISO setting on the light meter to get the correct exposure.

But the camera isn’t getting more sensitive, it’s just that the optimum amount of light for the “best” or “correct” exposure is reduced due to the added amplification.

So, with an electronic camera, ISO is a rating that will give you the correct recording brightness for the amount of light and the amount of gain that you have. This is different to sensitivity. Obviously the two are related, but they are not quite the same thing.

ISO in an electronic camera is not a sensitivity value, it is an exposure rating.

Getting rid of noise:

To combat the inevitable increase in the visibility of noise and the degraded signal to noise ratio that comes from adding gain/amplification, most modern cameras use electronic noise reduction which is applied more and more aggressively as you increase the gain. At low levels this goes largely un-noticed. But as you start to add more gain there will often be more noise reduction and this will start to degrade the image. It may become softer, it may become smeary. You may start to see banding, ghosting or other artefacts. Higher noise levels are also problematic for modern high compression codecs, so even if the camera doesn’t add extra noise reduction at high gain levels it is likely that the codec will do more noise reduction in an attempt to keep the recording bit rate under control.

Often as you increase the gain you may only see a very small increase in noise as the noise reduction does a very good job of hiding the noise. But for every bit of noise thats reduced there will be another artefact replacing it.

Technically the signal to noise ratio can be improved by the use of noise reduction, but this typically comes at a price and NR can be very problematic if you later want to grade or adjust the footage as often you won’t see the artefacts until after the corrections or adjustments have been made. So be very careful when adding gain. It’s never good to have extra gain.

So what does all of this mean?

The majority of the video cameras we use today are something known as ISO invariant. This mean that the actual sensitivity of the camera doesn’t actually change, even though the camera may offer you a wide range of ISO values. Instead we are adding gain to get a brighter picture, but extra gain degrades the signal to noise ratio and limits the dynamic range.

As well as adding gain in camera we can also add gain in post production. And if the quality of the recording codec is high enough there is almost no difference between adding the gain in post production compared to adding the gain in camera. If you don’t add gain in the camera then you don’t reduce the cameras dynamic range. By moving the gain addition to post production you can retain the cameras full dynamic range and overall the end result won’t be significantly different. This is why most Log cameras use some sort of Exposure Index system that locks the camera to it’s base sensitivity as this is where the camera will exhibit the greatest useable dynamic range.

What about using Picture Profiles of different Gamma Curves?

Different gamma curves have different gain levels. So, very often you will see a camera at it’s base sensitivity (ie: no added gain) give you different ISO values depending on the gamma curve you have chosen. Again – this doesn’t meant the sensitivity of the camera is different for each gamma curve. What it actually means is that the optimum exposure (exposure = amount of light you put on the sensor) is a bit different for each gamma curve.  For example when shooting S-Log3 the sensor is exposed lower than it is with normal gammas. This darker S-Log3 exposure leaves more room for an extended highlight range. The flip side to this is that when the camera is set at the correct, no extra gain added base ISO’s “correctly” exposed S-Log3 will be noisier than correctly exposed Rec-709 or S-Cinetone, but the S-Log3 will have a greater highlight range. If you were to expose the S-Log3 and the S-Cinetone using the same aperture and shutter speed the noise would be the same.

Picture Profiles for Low Light.

A question that gets asked a lot is: What’s the best picture profile or gamma for low light?

Well,  if you have followed all of the above then you will hopefully understand that the gamma or picture profile makes no difference to the actual sensitivity of the camera.  So in reality there is very little difference between any profile or gamma curve in terms of how the camera will perform in low light. Remember: it’s always the same sensor with the same noise and same sensitivity to light no matter what other settings you have chosen.

There might be some differences in the amount of noise reduction applied in different profiles and that might make a small difference. Many of Sony cameras allow you to adjust this between off/low/mid/high. But even if you can’t change this in camera, adding a bit of extra NR in post is a common practice these days.  Really, it’s a case of choosing the profile or gamma that gives you the image you want, S-Log3 if you intend to grade, perhaps S-Cinetone if you don’t. If you bring the S-Cinetone ISO value up to match the S-Log3 ISO value, the noise in the final image from both will be more or less the same.

Using what data you have.

Perhaps the only small consideration is that under exposed S-Log3 only uses a very small part of the cameras full recording range. You won’t be making use of the full recording data range. Because of this it might be hard to grade it without the image starting to look coarse or grainy.  Because of the smaller dynamic range, similarly exposed (same aperture, same shutter speed) S-Cinetone or Rec-709 will use more of the data range and might not look quite as coarse as a result. This difference is very small, but it should be considered if you are trying to squeeze something out of an extremely under exposed situation.